Wanted to state my situation and get some honest feedback from the veterans . I started my softwash company slowly but finally now got things going pretty well . I have done about 5 roof jobs along with siding and sidewalks and some fence cleaning . I am pretty confident now in my work and have my rig set about how I like it and functioning. I attended ac's class and have shirts , service agreements , and cards so I am pretty much ready to go . The jobs I did where family and friends . So my question to you guys is , my friend got my a lead on on a huge job and I have to go bid it . It is a mansion in Isle worth neighborhood , Tiger Woods , shaq etc..... I'm a nervous about the sale and not to under bid, because it will be my first official job and the jobs I have completed were all shingle , this house is a tile roof . I wanted to know your guys thoughts and if tile acted any different when applying chemical , and if a 3 % which I have been previously been using with great results be okay for tile or should I bump it up to a 4 % . I know it depends on how stained the roof is I just wanted to know if you guys use a rule of thumb. Thank you -justin ( jmv environmental )
Chris Mozick said
Nov 12, 2016
I would try a 4% if it's not that bad light coats and use extra cling to keep it on the tiles. Make sure you rinse really good and wet all landscaped areas tarp if have to and divert water using downspout diverters. You need two guys for sure to be safe and if possible don't walk the roofs you can do everything from ladders to avoid breaking tiles especially if it's high end estates. That's a great selling point to mention and don't under bid go high they have money and if you sell that you don't walk roofs that will be a plus
Tim Teed said
Nov 14, 2016
There is no magic formula of strength of mix. Just guidelines. At this point don't worry about how you will do the job, just get the sale. People buy from who they trust. Once you get the sale give AC a shout if you have questions. On big jobs I like to make a 20 gallon batch at 3% if I am unsure, spray a section and adjust strength as necessary. Sell with confidence. You have a bunch of guys that can help.
Bob Riddick said
Nov 14, 2016
Justin, I agree with Tim about selling the job first! Several blogs on the bulletin board about cleaning tile for you to reference. Also a webinar by AC in the Educational info on "Roof Cleaning".
Get your education from there, and the network of SWS contractors will get you the rest of the way. Sell with knowledge and confidence!
One job in that neighborhood would be a huge springboard for your business!
Justin Vanarsdol said
Nov 18, 2016
Put the bid in for it .. thought it went decent . She had to talk to her handyman she said so who knows . Another question for you guys , on my first few roof jobs I didn't rinse after applying chemical how many of you guys rinse ? First job I did I went back to for a check up and plants were brown plus grass around drip line .. I had a ground guy with a hose the whole time and came back after with plant wash .. I kind of feel like I'm going to have to cover plants and rinse each roof .. thoughts ? Experience ?
Troy Layman said
Dec 8, 2016
Welcome to the forums Justin,
I do 99% asphalt shingle roofs and we do not rinse as a general rule of thumb, meaning of course there are exceptions. It is impossible to match Mother Nature when it comes to rinsing a roof. First, when you spray Round Up weed killer on weeds, do you go back and rinse it off or leave it on to give it maximum dwell time to do the job? Obviously you leave it on the weed to maximize the killing power. The same goes for asphalt roofs and many other roof types. First, a light rain or heavy dew can reactivate the bleach and almost act as a retreat, but the bleach will be intensified, and some bleach will run off the edge of the roof. If you have gutters in place, you don't have to worry about rinsing that section of roof. If you do not have gutters in place, and there are plants or landscaping underneath that can be killed or bleached, you'll want to do some rinsing or you may get damages like you noticed. Typically we rinse up a few feet (4+) when there are no gutters so that should remove all the bleach and salt from that part of the roof, so by the time you get enough rain to wash any remaining bleach/salt off, the plants/landscaping below has already had enough rain to presoak, the bleach will have aged/degraded and been diluted, and anything running off will be constantly flooded with rainwater and typically flushed for a while. Just make sure you leave any bleachable items out of the drip line and you should be good. Over a few days the bleach will be rendered inert, but the salt will still be there. Just make sure your ground person is on the spot and mirroring you well, and make sure they are more concerned with keeping the plants, windows, house and everything rinsed well than saving a few gallons of water, like my ground person was when he first started helping me. Just make sure your helper and you follow all the tips and tricks in the plants and property training AC provides, use plenty of water, and you should be in good shape. Explain to them that if you leave a dark spot on the roof, it is on you to go back and make it right. If they don't do their job right, it is on them to buy the replacement plant, dig the hole, replace the plant, etc., etc., which will take the better part of a morning. They have that option, or they can spray water profusely which may cost the homeowner another $3-$5 on their water bill and pretty much never have a callback. Starting out, the scariest part is not proper spraying technique on your part so much as wondering if your ground person is doing an effective job.
There is no magic formula of strength of mix. Just guidelines. At this point don't worry about how you will do the job, just get the sale. People buy from who they trust. Once you get the sale give AC a shout if you have questions. On big jobs I like to make a 20 gallon batch at 3% if I am unsure, spray a section and adjust strength as necessary. Sell with confidence. You have a bunch of guys that can help.
Justin, I agree with Tim about selling the job first! Several blogs on the bulletin board about cleaning tile for you to reference. Also a webinar by AC in the Educational info on "Roof Cleaning".
Get your education from there, and the network of SWS contractors will get you the rest of the way. Sell with knowledge and confidence!
One job in that neighborhood would be a huge springboard for your business!
I do 99% asphalt shingle roofs and we do not rinse as a general rule of thumb, meaning of course there are exceptions. It is impossible to match Mother Nature when it comes to rinsing a roof. First, when you spray Round Up weed killer on weeds, do you go back and rinse it off or leave it on to give it maximum dwell time to do the job? Obviously you leave it on the weed to maximize the killing power. The same goes for asphalt roofs and many other roof types. First, a light rain or heavy dew can reactivate the bleach and almost act as a retreat, but the bleach will be intensified, and some bleach will run off the edge of the roof. If you have gutters in place, you don't have to worry about rinsing that section of roof. If you do not have gutters in place, and there are plants or landscaping underneath that can be killed or bleached, you'll want to do some rinsing or you may get damages like you noticed. Typically we rinse up a few feet (4+) when there are no gutters so that should remove all the bleach and salt from that part of the roof, so by the time you get enough rain to wash any remaining bleach/salt off, the plants/landscaping below has already had enough rain to presoak, the bleach will have aged/degraded and been diluted, and anything running off will be constantly flooded with rainwater and typically flushed for a while. Just make sure you leave any bleachable items out of the drip line and you should be good. Over a few days the bleach will be rendered inert, but the salt will still be there. Just make sure your ground person is on the spot and mirroring you well, and make sure they are more concerned with keeping the plants, windows, house and everything rinsed well than saving a few gallons of water, like my ground person was when he first started helping me. Just make sure your helper and you follow all the tips and tricks in the plants and property training AC provides, use plenty of water, and you should be in good shape. Explain to them that if you leave a dark spot on the roof, it is on you to go back and make it right. If they don't do their job right, it is on them to buy the replacement plant, dig the hole, replace the plant, etc., etc., which will take the better part of a morning. They have that option, or they can spray water profusely which may cost the homeowner another $3-$5 on their water bill and pretty much never have a callback. Starting out, the scariest part is not proper spraying technique on your part so much as wondering if your ground person is doing an effective job.