I have a 7gpm pump in a bucket set up. I've used my system on 10+ houses, etc and now it's blowing the fuses. I've replaced the relay and it worked for a couple now it's blowing as soon as I start spraying. Thanks for any suggestions. Ric @ Exterior Visions
Troy Layman said
Jun 23, 2016
I've not had that issue yet, but go back and double and triple check ever inch of wiring and connections and see if you have a pinched wire, or a bare spot that may be grounding out somewhere. Not to be insulting, but make sure you're using the correct fuses as well. Some fuses are fast blow and some are slow blow to contend with that quick surge of high amperage draw when a motor starts. When electric motors start they draw a very high amount of amps for the first instant until the motor is actually turning. It's possible there is an issue with the pump motor itself as well.
If this doesn't help, hopefully someone may have some more experience and be able to provide better insight.
Ric Alessio said
Jun 23, 2016
Hi Troy,
Thank you, I"ve been using the 25amp fuses white top that was like the original one with the pump. I was told that it might be pulling to many amps if the PSI is to high when I'm starting and stopping spraying. My guage will go up to 130 PSI sometimes but I don't have a valve to be able to regulate the PSI. Maybe someone can send me a pic of their set up with their pump and valves.
My skid is a GenIII with bypass and all, so it's a different situation, but I had multiple relays go bad. Part of the problem I think was the fairly high amperage of the pump, I think it says 25 max, and part was the pump's tendency to creep up in pressure, even with a bypass valve. I would say the high pressure is your main problem, coupled with the fairly high amperage draw. I would offer 2 solutions. First, you could try putting in a bypass valve. The second solution would be to try the 5.5gpm pump, it draws less amps. If you don't currently have a back up pump you'll need to get one soon anyway. Personally, and having experienced a similar problem, I think switching pumps would be the way to go. You could end up spending the time and effort putting in a bypass and still have the same problem. Of course, having a bypass would be a good addition anyway.
I ended up putting a 5.5gpm on my rig, and it solved all my problems. You will not lose spray distance or volume, transferring chems will take a very little bit longer, but you'll get longer battery life. The 5.5 amp pump also has no relay, and the ability to tweak the pressure switch up and down.
The 7gpm pump could come in handy as a bleach transfer pump in your shop when you get busier and increase your production volume. Just mount it on the wall next to your bulk bleach.
Also, do like Troy said and check your wires and stuff first, and I assume you are using a good quality deep cycle marine battery with a good charger as well. When I had my starter system, I was an electrical dummy, and I was charging my battery every night with a $15, 1.5 amp battery maintainer. I am still an electrical dummy, but have learned a lot in the last couple years.
Ric Alessio said
Jun 24, 2016
Hi Chad,
Thanks very much, I think it must be a pressure issue but I will check all my wiring connections as well. I do have a good charger and once it's fully charged it goes to trickle charge. I think I will replace the white valve I now have before the gauge with a bypass valve if that's what you would suggest. Or if you feel theres a better location and type of bypass valve that you could reccomend? Where do you buy your valves, like Lowes, etc.?
Appreciate the help.
Brandon Vaughn said
Jun 24, 2016
Ric, there is a small set screw pressure switch on the bottom of the pump, in the form of an allen wrench screw. You can adjust that to keep the pressure shutting off before it goes above 100 PSI.
The Banjo valves are maxed out at 100 PSI, so you can blow the seals off those, which we have done on our Gen 3 skids as well.
We too switched to a 5.5 GPM pump. Call SoftWash Systems and let them know your issues and see if they can help you out.
Ric Alessio said
Jun 24, 2016
Hi Brandon,
Thanks very much, I will definetly look at adjusting the pressure on the pump first. Also, I've noticed that you are all CH use and wondered how do you get it rinsed off so well. Do you use a rinse agent to apply or just lots of water?
Ric
Brandon Vaughn said
Jun 24, 2016
The trick is to pre-wet, and rinse quickly before it dries, and use lots of water. We use SH more these days since our fleet has grown so much larger in size.
Chad Eneix said
Jun 25, 2016
Ric,
Look for a agricultural fertilizer and spray systems dealer in your area. All of the parts of a quality skid are available there, including a bypass valve. All the components of a quality soft wash system are from agricultural spray equipment. Really what the "throttle valve" or "bypass valve" is is a adjustable external pressure relief valve. The dealer by me is called Fertilizer Dealer Supply, and they are all over at least the midwest.
Ric Alessio said
Jun 25, 2016
Thank you I will find and check out.
AC Lockyer said
Jun 27, 2016
Chad Eneix wrote:
My skid is a GenIII with bypass and all, so it's a different situation, but I had multiple relays go bad. Part of the problem I think was the fairly high amperage of the pump, I think it says 25 max, and part was the pump's tendency to creep up in pressure, even with a bypass valve. I would say the high pressure is your main problem, coupled with the fairly high amperage draw. I would offer 2 solutions. First, you could try putting in a bypass valve. The second solution would be to try the 5.5gpm pump, it draws less amps. If you don't currently have a back up pump you'll need to get one soon anyway. Personally, and having experienced a similar problem, I think switching pumps would be the way to go. You could end up spending the time and effort putting in a bypass and still have the same problem. Of course, having a bypass would be a good addition anyway.
I ended up putting a 5.5gpm on my rig, and it solved all my problems. You will not lose spray distance or volume, transferring chems will take a very little bit longer, but you'll get longer battery life. The 5.5 amp pump also has no relay, and the ability to tweak the pressure switch up and down.
The 7gpm pump could come in handy as a bleach transfer pump in your shop when you get busier and increase your production volume. Just mount it on the wall next to your bulk bleach.
Also, do like Troy said and check your wires and stuff first, and I assume you are using a good quality deep cycle marine battery with a good charger as well. When I had my starter system, I was an electrical dummy, and I was charging my battery every night with a $15, 1.5 amp battery maintainer. I am still an electrical dummy, but have learned a lot in the last couple years.
If this doesn't help, hopefully someone may have some more experience and be able to provide better insight.
Hi Troy,
Thank you, I"ve been using the 25amp fuses white top that was like the original one with the pump. I was told that it might be pulling to many amps if the PSI is to high when I'm starting and stopping spraying. My guage will go up to 130 PSI sometimes but I don't have a valve to be able to regulate the PSI. Maybe someone can send me a pic of their set up with their pump and valves.
Thanks, Ric
I ended up putting a 5.5gpm on my rig, and it solved all my problems. You will not lose spray distance or volume, transferring chems will take a very little bit longer, but you'll get longer battery life. The 5.5 amp pump also has no relay, and the ability to tweak the pressure switch up and down.
The 7gpm pump could come in handy as a bleach transfer pump in your shop when you get busier and increase your production volume. Just mount it on the wall next to your bulk bleach.
Also, do like Troy said and check your wires and stuff first, and I assume you are using a good quality deep cycle marine battery with a good charger as well. When I had my starter system, I was an electrical dummy, and I was charging my battery every night with a $15, 1.5 amp battery maintainer. I am still an electrical dummy, but have learned a lot in the last couple years.
Thanks very much, I think it must be a pressure issue but I will check all my wiring connections as well. I do have a good charger and once it's fully charged it goes to trickle charge. I think I will replace the white valve I now have before the gauge with a bypass valve if that's what you would suggest. Or if you feel theres a better location and type of bypass valve that you could reccomend? Where do you buy your valves, like Lowes, etc.?
Appreciate the help.
Ric, there is a small set screw pressure switch on the bottom of the pump, in the form of an allen wrench screw. You can adjust that to keep the pressure shutting off before it goes above 100 PSI.
The Banjo valves are maxed out at 100 PSI, so you can blow the seals off those, which we have done on our Gen 3 skids as well.
We too switched to a 5.5 GPM pump. Call SoftWash Systems and let them know your issues and see if they can help you out.
Thanks very much, I will definetly look at adjusting the pressure on the pump first. Also, I've noticed that you are all CH use and wondered how do you get it rinsed off so well. Do you use a rinse agent to apply or just lots of water?
Ric
The trick is to pre-wet, and rinse quickly before it dries, and use lots of water.
We use SH more these days since our fleet has grown so much larger in size.
Look for a agricultural fertilizer and spray systems dealer in your area. All of the parts of a quality skid are available there, including a bypass valve. All the components of a quality soft wash system are from agricultural spray equipment. Really what the "throttle valve" or "bypass valve" is is a adjustable external pressure relief valve. The dealer by me is called Fertilizer Dealer Supply, and they are all over at least the midwest.
Spot on Chad. Thanks,
AC