With the super low temps we've had recently, my usual mix of 50/50 water to windshield washer fluid is turning to slush and beginning to freeze in my hose. I've upped the washer fluid to counter this and placed a pipe heater tape around my pump head. Seems to be working so far, but we were at -2 degrees yesterday morning.
My question is, can Bleach Wash also be mixed in with my winterizing solution without creating a terrible synergism?!?!? In other words, will Bleach Wash play well together in the sandbox with the diluted windshield washer fluid??
If anyone knows for sure (chemically) I'd love to know. It would eliminate a step at the end of the job on cold days.
Right now I'm spending the time after a job to purge my system with fresh water then neutralize with Bleach Wash solution, purge again, then fill my system with winterizing solution. Time consuming, and would like to be able to eliminate two steps if possible and safe.
Thanks...
Chad Eneix said
Feb 21, 2015
I'm not really sure about the chemical question. I would, however, recommend antifreeze instead in the future. I researched this thoroughly this fall, and I now use antifreeze in all 3 pressure washers, my twin pump, and my SWS skid. Antifreeze has lubrication agents for seals, plastics, wear parts. Windshield fluid has alcohol, which tends to dry things out. Also, I don't use RV antifreeze. It will actually get slushy or solid, it just does not expand. So if you need to fire up the pump, it could be a problem.
I buy recycled antifreeze from an auto salvage yard. It is 1/4 the price of new, and I can reuse it for a year or two. It's still pretty expensive compared to ww fluid. My stuff sits in a heated shop, so I winterize as a fail safe. We also get called for deicing jobs with the pressure washers, and they will sit on those jobs and drive to and from overnight not running, sometimes down to -15. Maybe with my SWS I'm overdoing it, considering the relatively low cost of those pumps, and the fact that they constantly spray bleach during the season. I just figure I'm protecting a pretty big investment for a couple hundred dollars every two years or so.
AC Lockyer said
Feb 21, 2015
Bleach Wash and Alcohol is an unknown. I wouldn't risk it. I would however do as Chad stated above, HOWEVER remove your pump from the system after done and run clean water through the head. I am not sure what antifreeze will do to the valves. There is a condition that once a pump is broken in using bleach and caustics that if you use another chemical in that pump that isnt bleach and / or is an acid not a base, the pump head and valves will soon crack and fail.
AC
Mark Fermoyle said
Feb 23, 2015
Thanks Chad & AC.
When you use regular "anti-freeze", do you dilute it at all with water, or use it at full strength?
I am actually confused a bit now. I had spoken with Bob at Pressure Tek when I purchased my FatBoy and he had instructed me to use either windshield wiper fluid or RV antifreeze and NOT automotive antifreeze. Said something in auto-antifreeze might eat up the seals. Not sure what to do now, but I suppose I'll contact Bob again just to verify. Perhaps "I" got it backwards!! Wouldn't be the first time.
Thanks again!
Chad Eneix said
Feb 23, 2015
Good tip on removing the pump AC, I didn't do that, but I will next year.
Mark, you can buy antifreeze pre-diluted, which is 50/50, or full strength. Auto shops sell an antifreeze tester for under 5 bucks, and it will tell you to what temperature any mixture you have is diluted to. As I buy recycled antifreeze, I use a tester. I keep the mix pretty strong, we see -15 or lower sometimes. Also, if you un-winterize and re-winterize a lot, it is unavoidable to get a little more water in the mix each time.
Also, a tip for your "other job" Mark. We keep a spray bottle of antifreeze on all rigs with a pump. Spray the seals on the intakes and discharges at the start of each shift. We also throw a torch in the Driver's compartment when it gets cold to un-stick things in a real emergency. Just a tip from up north- maybe you already have this covered. I have taken to doing this on my business trucks as well when winter starts.
Mark Fermoyle said
Feb 24, 2015
Great tips, Chad. Yes, we've come up with similar solutions for winter weather preparedness in our dept. We carry a heat gun on the Engine and there is a generator on board too. In addition to what you described, we also wrap our intakes with waste paper basket liners to prevent all the road salts/sands/grime from buggering up the works. They tear off very easily when we need to hook up.
Thanks again!!
Jesse Bracken said
Feb 27, 2015
My RHG system is currently sitting in my dining room all nice and cozy.... lol
Dan Signor said
Feb 28, 2015
AC this should be the next SoftWash Systems Chemical for the cold weather regions. I disconnected lines and blew them out with air. I'm not sure if this was right but it seemed to work.
AC Lockyer said
Feb 28, 2015
Dan,
Unfortunately us developing an antifreeze doesn't make sense.
With the super low temps we've had recently, my usual mix of 50/50 water to windshield washer fluid is turning to slush and beginning to freeze in my hose. I've upped the washer fluid to counter this and placed a pipe heater tape around my pump head. Seems to be working so far, but we were at -2 degrees yesterday morning.
My question is, can Bleach Wash also be mixed in with my winterizing solution without creating a terrible synergism?!?!? In other words, will Bleach Wash play well together in the sandbox with the diluted windshield washer fluid??
If anyone knows for sure (chemically) I'd love to know. It would eliminate a step at the end of the job on cold days.
Right now I'm spending the time after a job to purge my system with fresh water then neutralize with Bleach Wash solution, purge again, then fill my system with winterizing solution. Time consuming, and would like to be able to eliminate two steps if possible and safe.
Thanks...
I buy recycled antifreeze from an auto salvage yard. It is 1/4 the price of new, and I can reuse it for a year or two. It's still pretty expensive compared to ww fluid. My stuff sits in a heated shop, so I winterize as a fail safe. We also get called for deicing jobs with the pressure washers, and they will sit on those jobs and drive to and from overnight not running, sometimes down to -15. Maybe with my SWS I'm overdoing it, considering the relatively low cost of those pumps, and the fact that they constantly spray bleach during the season. I just figure I'm protecting a pretty big investment for a couple hundred dollars every two years or so.
AC
Thanks Chad & AC.
I had spoken with Bob at Pressure Tek when I purchased my FatBoy and he had instructed me to use either windshield wiper fluid or RV antifreeze and NOT automotive antifreeze. Said something in auto-antifreeze might eat up the seals. Not sure what to do now, but I suppose I'll contact Bob again just to verify. Perhaps "I" got it backwards!! Wouldn't be the first time. 
When you use regular "anti-freeze", do you dilute it at all with water, or use it at full strength?
I am actually confused a bit now.
Thanks again!
Mark, you can buy antifreeze pre-diluted, which is 50/50, or full strength. Auto shops sell an antifreeze tester for under 5 bucks, and it will tell you to what temperature any mixture you have is diluted to. As I buy recycled antifreeze, I use a tester. I keep the mix pretty strong, we see -15 or lower sometimes. Also, if you un-winterize and re-winterize a lot, it is unavoidable to get a little more water in the mix each time.
Also, a tip for your "other job" Mark. We keep a spray bottle of antifreeze on all rigs with a pump. Spray the seals on the intakes and discharges at the start of each shift. We also throw a torch in the Driver's compartment when it gets cold to un-stick things in a real emergency. Just a tip from up north- maybe you already have this covered. I have taken to doing this on my business trucks as well when winter starts.
Thanks again!!
Unfortunately us developing an antifreeze doesn't make sense.
AC